Niall O'Connor Reporting from Paris.

THE ROAR STARTED 1,000 metres below Paris’ Sacre Coeur Bassilica, as the Tour de France circus rounded the corner onto the steep cobbled hill just metres from the iconic Moulin Rouge windmill. 

We observed from on top of the hill, on a balcony. The cheers like a living beast that rolled up from Rue Lepic. The streets seven deep with polka dot clad fans cheering at the visceral ballistic speed of the rushing peloton.

The riders sweep by at close to 60 kilometres per hour, past a troupe of dancers from the cabarets of Pigalle – three weeks of racing in their legs. 

On the steps at the famous Sacre Ceour, with its panoramic view over the tin grey rooftops of Paris, thousands have gathered. They have been drinking cans and bottles of wine from early morning. Some have brought tables and one family is enjoying wine, cheese and crackers – this is Paris as the clichés imagine. 

The fans have been given the white and red polka dot t-shirts and hats to wear from the travelling convoy of publicity freebies that advance through the streets before the riders. There are flags from across the globe – Colombia, Britain, Slovenia, the US, Italy, France, Spain and Ireland. 

This is a festival of singing, and drumming on the advertising hoardings – it is a hillside of football chants and cheers as the fans greet the passing cavalcade in advance of the riders. 

The final stage of the 2026 tour was shortened in a show of respect to those emergency services fighting the devastating forest fires to the south, that have ventured close to the French capital. 

The stage may have been shortened to just over 80kms, but that only heightened the febrile atmosphere on the hill above the city and the feeding frenzy for victory in the peloton.

Emperor Pogacar

Tadej Pogacar lined up to roll out for his fifth Tour de France title as an anointed yellow clad god of the sport. He joins a club of champions that defines road cycling: Jacques Anquetil, Eddy Merckx, Bernard Hinault and Miguel Indurain.

The 27-year-old Slovenian took yellow with a victory in the Pyrenees mountains on stage six. His arrival on the scene was with victory in the Tour d’Alvenir in 2018, an under 23 stage race that is seen as the infant version of Le Tour. 

He is slight in frame and has the facial features of a 14-year-old boy – but he is an assassin of the sport with five stages this year on the most difficult of days which included the iconic 21 hair pin bends of Alpe D’Huez.  

Since signing for his UAE team, sponsored by the oil rich United Arab Emirates, he has been consistent in his dominance. It has come with concerns by many that his awe-inspiring ability to win when he chooses may be tainted, but there is no evidence beyond the well-trodden suspicions of some cycling fans and commentators.

On Sunday he led the peloton on a ceremonial spin around the Champs Élysée circuit first. Posing for photographs as he rode around the Arc de Triomphe, dressed head to toe in yellow, on a yellow Colnago bicycle – he looked like a returning emperor after a successful campaign in the colonies. 

Riders cycle up Rue Lepic on the ascent of the Butte de Montmartre during the 21st stage on Sunday. Alamy Stock Photo Alamy Stock Photo

As Ireland was gripped with the final moments of Mayo’s victory over Kerry in the All Ireland Final, the French police moved the barriers and the spectacle of Montmartre began in Paris. 

A swarm of helicopters arrived first, then the roar.

It rolled up from below like a gas, filling the cafes and bars, through the open windows of the garrets, bouncing around bends and like a wave through the crowd.

On the first lap Pogacar and others surged forward. The masse group of their colleagues came in a single, strung out blur of speed as they tried to close the gap. 

The roar on the hill increased to a fever of joy and noise – Pogacar its conqueror. Three weeks of watching the riders on television was all condescended into those moments. For some in the crowd, standing close to our location, it was an emotional moment. 

The three ascents happened rapidly, and soon it was Pogacar and the Dutch rider Mathieu van der Poel alone with a slim lead ahead of a pursuing smaller pack. Van der Poel is from cycling royalty, his grandfather was now deceased French legend Raymond Poulidor who finished runner-up in the Tour on three occasions. His father Adri is a champion of the 1980s and 90s. 

His palmarès is incredibly impressive, with World Champion jerseys, monument classic victories and stage wins. The Dutch man’s riding style is akin to a bear wrestling with a gate – all muscle and gritted teeth.

They had a slender seven-second lead at the top of Montmartre and continued to hold it all the way down the descent back to glory on the Champs Élysée. After their last passage – no one moved. 

The crowds watched on through their phones and large screens dotted around the hillside – not daring to leave until they knew who took the last stage. 

Mathieu van der Poel attacks followed by a grimacing Pgacar in the yellow jersey. Alamy Stock Photo Alamy Stock Photo

Five fingers victory

We watched the closing metres at a watch party hosted by cycling team Red Bull Bora Hansgrohe as van der Poel surged forward on the Champs Élysée and used all that bear-like power to take the stage. Pogacar gliding across the line – five fingers raised the salute to his historic win.

Back on the hill the fans headed away to the metro stations, bars and cafes of Pigalle below – satisfied they knew how it ends. 

The last cheer came at the end as the road cleaners came to dismantle the circus and return Montmartre to its aloof self.

As the song says, “leaving the town in the keeping of the one that is sweeping…”