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Letter from Brazil

Brazil makes a mad dash for final preparations - but the people are ready to start the party

From Salvador, Mikey Stafford writes that World Cup fever is starting to take hold ahead of tomorrow’s big kick-off.

photo 1 (2) Mikey Stafford / TheScore.ie Mikey Stafford / TheScore.ie / TheScore.ie

LAST NIGHT ON the streets of Salvador the locals were gearing up for a party that went off without a hitch. That’s nothing new though, they do that every Tuesday.

What started 80 years ago as a simple tradition of sharing bread after mass has developed into a city-wide phenomenon of food, samba, drums and cashew caipirinhas. So many cashew caipirinhas.

A torrential tropical downpour did not dampen spirits on the hilly, cobbled streets where Brazilian flags are beginning to sprout like mushrooms ahead of the tomorrow’s big kick-off against Croatia in São Paulo.

What is threatening to rain on that much larger parade however are persistent fears that the country, and particularly its infrastructure, is nowhere near prepared for the World Cup. The death of a construction worker on São Paulo’s delayed monorail project suggested the speed at which projects are being rushed towards completion.

While the Arena Fonte Nova that hosts Spain and Holland in this city on Friday has been ready for a year it is obvious from walking around the sprawling city that many projects are well behind schedule.

photo 4 Mikey Stafford / TheScore.ie Mikey Stafford / TheScore.ie / TheScore.ie

On Avenue Oceanica, which runs through the tourist hotspot of Barra, an army of construction workers were busy yesterday afternoon painting walls, laying paving, replacing pipes and constructing the massive big screens for the fan zone at the lighthouse.

As Spanish and Dutch fans, perhaps unwisely, swam in the heavily polluted waters of Bais de Todos-os-Santos and lolled under parasols on the thin stretch of beach, the blue-clad builders of the local authority were working at furious pace in the afternoon heat.

One project that has been completed in time for the tournament is the city’s metro line. It only took 15 years. The locals describe it as “seven kilometres of shame” that, due to an alleged combination of mismanagement and corruption has sat unused for over a decade.
Today it runs for the first time but only on a trial basis and only to the Arena Fonte Nova and only for match-goers, dignitaries, media and stadium staff.

photo 1 (1) Mikey Stafford / TheScore.ie Mikey Stafford / TheScore.ie / TheScore.ie

You would wonder if such a long-fingered project even counts towards the $80 million reportedly spent on tourism infrastructure by the Brazilian government. Regardless, that figure pales into insignificance when placed beside the $3.5 billion spent on the dozen stadiums and $2.8 billion put into the airports. Salvador airport was working perfectly last week, but there was still work being done on the car parks and it is in an advanced state compared to Manaus, São Paulo and others.

Throw in the lingering threat of a metro strike in São Paulo tomorrow, the possibility of crippling electricity blackouts and the potential for social unrest and you can see why Sports Minister Aldo Rebelo struck a less than defiant tone last week when discussing the country’s preparedness.

“When you are dealing with an event as big as the World Cup there is no way for you to put a diploma on the wall saying you are ready,” Rebelo said. “You have to be prepared every day.

photo 2 (1) Mikey Stafford / TheScore.ie Mikey Stafford / TheScore.ie / TheScore.ie

“Everything needs to be working 24 hours. I am not going to hang a diploma on my wall and say ‘Here is my diploma, everything is ready.’ We have done everything within our capacity so that things are as close as possible to ready.”

Their government, local and national, may not be convinced but the Brazilian people seem prepared for their World Cup. The markets are doing a terrific trade in jerseys, flags and petite vuvuzelas that still produce that powerful sound.

Neymar’s ankle may have rolled in training but his adoring public are ready to rock. At least they were last night on the streets of Salvador. Will the World Cup be a success? It will in a month of Tuesdays.

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