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Some Waterford natives show their colours in the main square. INPHO/Donall Farmer
Estonia

Miguel Delaney's Letter from Estonia, day 3

It’s the morning after the night before in Tallinn’s main square as the Old Town went green.

IT’S 12AM IN Tallinn but, really, it could be any host city in Europe on the eve of a big Irish international away game.

A fair few boxes are being ticked.

  1. The city’s main Irish pub – in this case, the Molly Malone – is absolutely jammed.
  2. John Delaney is in the middle of them all, playing the populist.
  3. There are about two women in the place. Estonian girls may be world-renowned for their beauty but they probably won’t be getting chatted to by many Irishmen tonight until about 4am.
  4. As perfectly surmised by Ciaran Murphy on Off the Ball, many groups of lads are quietly looking out the window with distant – and very red – eyes having been up since about 4am for an early flight. Most just want to be in bed but no-one wants to be the one to actually say “we’ll call it a night”. It’s an endurance test by that stage… consume enough alcohol until you’re drunk enough to not feel tired.

Elsewhere, the Depeche Mode Bar – yes, really – offers a bit more of a sedate experience. There are a fair few Irish fans having a chat… and listening to three continuous hours of ONLY Depeche Mode songs.

Until it becomes apparent why. The closing song is that staple of terrace chants, ‘Just Can’t Get Enough’. The room suddenly goes wild… in a very, very happy way.

Finally, all the remaining stragglers (who hadn’t gone to any of the city’s “gentleman’s clubs”) congregated in the Old Square’s science-themed “Labor” bar. Here, the bar staff were white lab coats while shots are served in test tubes.

What’s going on the middle of the floor is anything but scientific though. An unnamed Irish pressman is engaged in a dance-off on a pillar with a local.

Of course, easy as it is to be wry-eyed and cynical about all of this, I’d challenge anyone to not get swept along. Many people might see it as a cliché, but there is a genuine sense of joy about the travelling Irish party.

And, even more importantly, the sense of occasion is really growing. You can sense the anticipation. Most conversations eventually devolved into thoughts on tonight’s game. Some were quite cocky about it, others allowing irrational doubt to make them only see doom and misery.

The latter, however, is something you could never say about the Irish travelling fans as a whole.

And – finally – yes. I will have the gall to call last night’s trip to Tallinn’s Old Town as “research”.

Poll: Do you fancy Ireland’s chances in Tallinn tonight?

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