BIG WAVE SURFING is a risky business. One false move and you will have tons of water crashing down on your body, pinning you under the surface for minutes at a time.
And if that first wave doesn’t kill you, the one behind it almost certainly will. Luckily there haven’t been too many high-profile deaths in the pursuit of these monster waves. However this week sadly saw the passing away of the newly-crowned North Shore Underground Surfer of the Year, Sion Milosky.
In the early morning of Wednesday, Milosky, 35 of Hawaii, was surfing the legendary break of Mavericks in Half Moon Bay, California. He is said to have paddled down the face of the wave and had made the bottom turn. However he was then caught up by the wave and engulfed in the white water. Even though there were several other surfers and jet skis in the water at the time, his body could not be retrieved quickly enough and he was pronounced dead on arrival at the hospital. He is survived by his wife and two daughters and our thoughts are with them.
To hear Milosky talk candidly about his love for big wave surfing check out this short video.
Milosky is not the first victim of the world-renowned big wave break of Mavericks. Back in 1994 Mark Foo failed to make the paddle into a wave and his body was never recovered. This is a stark reminder that surfing is a dangerous sport and all of us, even those at the top of their game, must respect the sea and the ever-changing conditions.
Good (and safe) waves everyone.
Weather Overview
Yet again after a week of truly splendid surf we find ourselves at the weekend with the Atlantic dominated by high-pressure systems – I’m starting to think this column may be jinxed! Our friends up north will again fair best as a long-range low moves into position bringing the best waves tomorrow. Winds will be strong and from the south this morning before backing off and switching west tomorrow.
The North – To say our Northern Irish cousins having been having the best of it at the moment would be an understatement. And now things get even better as the wind swings offshore today. It will be quite strong though so look for sheltered spots.
Co Donegal/Sligo – Bundoran and the surrounding areas are my pick for the weekend. With the southerly winds holding up the sizable 2.5m swells there should be decent breakers all weekend.
Co Clare – It’s all about the wind for those Lahinchians looking for surf. Strong southerlies today will knock down any peaks but late Sunday could see some waves develop – albeit onshore ones.
Dingle Peninsula – Very wind-effected today as bad weather rolls in. Wave conditions should improve tomorrow even if the weather does not.
Cork & the south – Was told I got this all wrong last week and the swell did indeed wrap into a lot of beaches. So it is with trepidation that I say that yet again the swell direction will mean no waves for the Rebels.
Disclaimer – These weather reports are intended as a general overview of swell running in that area. These are predictions and actual wave size may vary. Do not enter the water alone or without adequate equipment and do not enter surf that is too large for your abilities. We cannot be held responsible for any decisions you make based on this information. For daily weather information follow @dinglesurf on Twitter.com.
From www.wetterzentrale.de:
From www.fnmoc.navy.mil
